Inside Maison Selby, a bistro inside a 136-year-old mansion

That’s when O&B stepped in. Even in the teardown stage, chef John Horne says, the spot was a stunner, with plenty of ornate touches like moulding and stained glass. Now scrubbed, renovated and redecorated, the high-ceilinged restaurant space – which spans four rooms on the main floor, each with its own look and vibe, plus a “secret” basement bar where the Kurbash used to be – is plush and colourful, but retains just enough of that homey vibe to put diners at ease.

“When you walk in, your jaw drops,” Horne says. “You could spend days in here and keep seeing little details and unique pieces. They pay homage to a building that’s been here for so long and seen so many things throughout its life. The Gooderham House has a lot of history, and it’s exciting to be the next phase.”

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